The Saree Effect
Shoot by FAST at UCLA. Photography by Casey Jingco and Rajveer Batra. Styling by Ravi Ranawaka. Hair and Makeup by Kiera Desai and Brenda Osagie. Modeling by Simran Ovalekar, Sanya Khan, and Aditi Dhoreliya.
She is a woman. She wears her sillage on the pallu of her saree, swathing her body as tenderly as morning dew on rose petals. Each fold, each silken drape, whispers a tale of tradition. Stories and rituals lie nestled within the creases of her pleated saree, which she kept there for her daughters to uncover.
Tradition is rampant through the stretch of earth that we call India, forming an integral cornerstone of the Indian lifestyle. Indian women begin their mornings by entwining their raven-black, plaited hair with delicate strands of mogra (jasmine flowers) and completing their routine by draping their sarees. In this choreography of daily life, starting in the ripe moments of dawn, the selection of traditional garments serves as a personal ritual and as a thread of cultural continuity. Every Nani’s (grandmother) bedtime story tasted as sweet as boiled sugar and filled the night with warmth and wonder. Her words, laced with love and wisdom, are remembered earnestly and abound with teachings. Yet, the most cherished gift she passed down is the art of draping a saree—a ritual as graceful as it is grounding. It is a world unto itself, painted in hues pulled from the soil, patterned with traces from the sky, and structured with the might of water. From temple rituals to weddings, from honoring ancestors to celebrating festivals, the saree remains a sacred garment. It is both revealing and reserved, fierce and gentle—This duality is what makes the saree so powerful. It allows a woman to express her inner fire while remaining grounded in her roots, balancing the modern allure of confidence with the ancient ideals of purity. More than just fabric, it has psychological symbolism, and creative reinvention, bridging historical narratives with the aspirations of contemporary womanhood.
THE CRAFT AND ITS ROOTS: Six Yards, Infinite Stories
The saree is a fine curation from a plain piece of cloth, transformed by the hands of skilled artisans. It stands as a testament to our ancestry, and a beautiful acknowledgment of family in Indian tradition. A length of fabric manifests as a tapestry of devotion as artisans labor over their looms with prowess and precision—a patient tedium, honed and preserved through generations. Their hands dance across threads, bringing the fabric to life, like the Korvai method of interlocking borders or the intricate Jacquard weaving used for brocade designs. From the sunlit glaze of silk to the earthy richness of cotton, their touch brings soul and nourishment to the garment.
Source: The Wall Street Journal
This timeless garment is a keeper of its own seasons, reflecting the geography of India. To the north, Kashmiri Pashmina sarees feature delicate sozni embroidery inspired by the valleys. In the west, Gujarat and Rajasthan offer vibrant Bandhani sarees with tie-dyed patterns. To the east, West Bengal’s Baluchari sarees depict mythological tales in silk brocade. In the south, Kerala’s Kasavu sarees shimmer with white and gold borders. The appraisal of these clothes lies in the testament to their craftsmanship; in the careful selection of materials, the intricate weave, and the deliberate motifs, the saree endures as an emblem of heritage.
Source: New York Times & Pinterest
Sarees come in myriads of forms, and each fabric blossoms in idiosyncratic gardens. Chanderi cotton—with its sheer texture and natural designs—is nature itself, woven into threads. In contrast, the tight-knit elegance of Pochampally ikat vaunts the geometric rhythms created when color marries into pattern. The Banarasi Saree is unequivocally a faceted gem, catching the light of resplendence in its luxurious silk and gold embellishments. Paying silent homage to Mughal artistry, each floral design is as opulent as the grandeur of an imperial past. Meanwhile, the Kanchipuram saree features contrasting borders where two weavers work in unison, their hands deftly moving over the loom to create temple-inspired patterns suggestive of divinity and devotion.
PSYCHOLOGY OF INDIAN FASHION - Significance
The delicate lines of Kajal tracing her eyes bring depth to her gaze, a protective charm meant to shield her from Nazar (the envious glances of lookers). Her bindi (a red dot placed at the center of her forehead) is worn over the Ajna chakra, or "third eye". It represents Shakti, the divine feminine energy, and in marriage, it is a symbol of commitment and blessing, signifying a woman's role as both nurturer and protector of her family. Chudiya (Bangles) circle her wrists, chiming gently with each movement, and are accompanied by notes of the soft tinkles from the ghungroos (Anklets) on her feet—together, giving music to her presence. Each step in her routine reflects the timeless rhythms of Indian life, where even the smallest gestures carry the weight of culture, lore, the warmth of home, and sometimes even superstitions. The pallu—a waterfall cascading over her shoulder—is not merely cloth but a canvas of her lineage. It may be adorned with peacocks, lotuses, or mythological tales, each a verse in her ancestral poem. Sareea ebb and flow, never confined by the body, but framing it in reverence.
When she wraps herself in this cloth, her maidenhood is metamorphosed into womanhood and is a visual expression of community within India’s diverse setting, reminding women that they are part of a larger network. In the flowing silk, she is both vessel and muse of pride and power–her ethics and virtue are given armor. It is a prerogative of every Indian woman to wear it as a second skin. From the courtroom to the boardroom, women are redefining boundaries while draped in sarees. Justice Leila Seth, the first woman to become a Chief Justice in an Indian High Court, often wore sarees while presiding over cases, a testament to the coexistence of tradition and authority. Similarly, authors like Arundhati Roy celebrated for The God of Small Things, and politicians like Sushma Swaraj have worn sarees to signify intellectual prowess and cultural pride on international stages. Whether in literature, politics, business, or the arts, the saree enables Indian women to walk the tightrope between modernity and tradition.
THE SACRED SPACE - Religion, Faith, and Spirituality
Across various religions and communities, the garment plays a pivotal role, symbolizing the sanctity of womanhood. In ways, it hosts the dichotomy of boldness and humility. With its flowing fabric and form-fitting drape, the saree reveals the contours of a woman’s body, celebrating her sensuality. It embraces her gregarious spirit, yet tempers it with a graceful meekness, striking a delicate balance between brazenness and disciplined restraint. It is unapologetically vivacious–crowning her as a devi (goddess) and acknowledging her fidelity to her religion and family.
Source: Pinterest
In Hinduism, the saree is worn at nearly every religious and life milestone, from pujas (prayers) to shaadis (weddings), as an offering of respect to the divine. During Navratri (a Hindu Festival), for instance, women don colorful sarees to honor the goddess, Durga, channeling her power and grace in their attire. Each day of Navratri is associated with a different color, and by adorning sarees in these shades, women invoke blessings, strength, and protection. Similarly, during Karva Chauth (a Hindu Festival), married women wear red sarees to signify marital bliss and seek blessings for the longevity of their husbands. Sikh women often wear sarees during Anand Karaj (wedding ceremony).
In Jainism, white sarees are often worn by women as an embodiment of values held deeply in Jain philosophy: purity and non-attachment. During religious observances like Paryushana, the most important Jain festival of self-purification and reflection, many women wear simple, unadorned white sarees as a statement of sacrifice and dedication for spiritual growth. For Buddhist women in India, sarees in peaceful tones like saffron or white are chosen to symbolize detachment from worldly desires and commitment to inner peace. The saree here is worn to honor Buddha’s teachings of simplicity and tranquility.
Source: Pinterest
Across these faiths, the six or nine yards of fabric are likened to a canvas, shrinking the vastness of cultural and religious beliefs within the peripheries of a single piece of cloth.
SAREE MEETS MODERNITY
Amid the ephemerality of the fashion world, the saree is being reinvented in modern society. It is worn by young and old, on bustling city streets and quiet village paths, each wearer's interpretation unique, but each story is deeply connected and carries an emotional and cultural resonance that spans across the Indian diaspora. In an era of rapid modernization, the saree stands as a symbol of both personal identity and collective heritage.
Masaba Gupta on the runway. Source: Pinterest
Designers like Masaba Gupta have been instrumental in this transformation, merging contemporary aesthetics with traditional forms. Known for her bold prints, unexpected motifs, and fearless use of color, Gupta challenges conventional notions of the saree. Her designs feature everything from abstract patterns and pop-culture references to motifs inspired by everyday life, such as camera rolls and cow prints. By doing so, she makes the saree accessible and relevant to younger generations. Similarly, Sabyasachi Mukherjee marries tradition with modernity by styling sarees with belts, boots, or jackets, offering a winsome blend of the obsolete and the bold. As he notes, “The saree is timeless because it adapts. It holds tradition in one fold and innovation in another.” Social media influencers like Komal Pandey embody this spirit of reinvention, pairing sarees with crop tops and sneakers, bespeaking confidence and creativity. Dolly Jain, a celebrated drape artist, showcases how this single garment can bloom in myriad forms, with each drape crystallizing a new story. In sustainable fashion, brands like Raw Mango by Sanjay Garg breathe new life into traditional weaves, Known for reviving age-old techniques like Chanderi, Varanasi brocade, and Mashru, Garg’s designs strip away excess ornamentation, focusing on clean lines, subtle palettes, and the integrity of the weave itself. His minimalist approach offers a contemporary sensibility while honoring the craftsmanship and heritage of Indian textiles.
Sanjay Garg (left) and Sabyasachi Mukherjee (right).
This modern interpretation makes the saree a paradigm of conscious fashion. It reflects a delicate alchemy of legacy and innovation, remaining a dynamic outlet for self-expression—an ethereal garment thriving within the ever-shifting contours of modernity
Some symbols are eternal—preserving the past, embracing the present, and inspiring the future. Through this iconic treasure, Indian women reclaim their space and embody a blend of nostalgia and modernity that bridges the past and the present. Whether worn with blessings in a temple, with authority in a courtroom, or with flair on a modern runway, sarees are the unseen threads of protection, blessing, and ritual. To be cloaked in the grace of her lineage is a privilege.