Big Bad B*tch Clothes: The Problems with the Plus-Size Industry
“They said, ‘big bad b*tch, get to the back.’ They said, ‘big bad b*tch, you want a snack?’ Well, this big bad b*tch, she got the stack. So put big bad b*tch clothes on the rack!” raps Samyra (@samyra) to her 2+ million followers. Since launching her TikTok in 2020, the musician and influencer has taken the Internet by storm with her viral songs and content. But recently, she’s skyrocketed to virality with her videos exposing the plus-size fashion industry.
Samyra’s content follows a familiar pattern: she films herself walking into popular brand stores in search of clothes that fit her. However, the outcome is always the same, no matter if it’s Lululemon or Hollister. Either the plus-size options are online only, or they’re tucked away in the back of the store, poorly displayed, or neglected altogether.
Samyra’s trademark of the “big bad b*tch,” one who is confident and demands equal access to fashion, has reached millions across the globe. The message behind her content is clear: plus-size people deserve to feel beautiful in the clothes they wear. Shopping for clothing should not be an everyday struggle. The fashion industry, with all its resources and reach, is more than capable of not only offering plus-sizes, but showcasing them with equal respect as the other sizes, so that people of all body types can express themselves comfortably. So then, why and how is the plus-size industry as neglected as it is today?
Looking around, you’ll find more questions than answers. Art museums display portraits of plus-size women adorned in perfectly-fitting gowns and Greek statues of barely-clothed women, where their curves and body fat are put on display. Clearly, the plus-size body was an adored and normalized part of historic fashion, but why is the modern industry so reluctant to supply clothes that fit?
The answer can be found in the language when the first plus-size retailer was founded in 1904. Lane Bryant established the precedent of sizing inclusivity, but while the sizes were there, the language was all structured around comparing the plus-size body to its skinnier counterpart. It wasn’t exactly empowering to wear a dress sized as “stout all over” or “full” while surrounded by marketing glorifying thinner bodies.
These backhanded ads send the message that fatness is something to hide. The constant degradation of plus-size people downgrades their industry into one that shrinks under backlash, one that lives in the shadow of its glorified, thinner counterpart. It’s difficult for plus-size fashion to really take off when it’s never been integrated into the fashion “mainstream”.
Despite the growing body positivity movement, there are still too many cases of the industries being viewed as separate entities. For example, the Victoria’s Secret 2024 runway was a huge “reunion” success, but faced backlash online for including models of body types beyond the 2000s “angel” look.
Miranda Kerr (left, 2006) and Ashley Graham (right, 2024) for Victoria’s Secret.
While many argue that Victoria’s Secret’s trademark is its thin models, the company’s latest show was supposed to paint a new picture, one where bodies of all kinds were shown on the runway. Instead, the plus-size models were barely shown, and wore short dresses that covered their bodies instead of the classic angel two-pieces. Aiyana Ishmael of Teen Vogue lamented this styling choice, remarking that, “for a show that was positioned as more inclusive than the brand’s past, it felt like a gut punch that there were not just very, very few plus models, but that they weren’t given the same treatment [as the other Angels] when it was their time to shine”. When we shut plus-size models out of an industry that doesn’t welcome them as much as it should, it demonstrates that, to these critics, it’s not really about the “tradition” of the Victoria’s Secret angels, but about the bodies themselves.
Plus-size people don’t just face adversity on the runway. The industry continues to exclude plus-size people and treat them as “separate,” particularly with in-store options. Plus-size clothing is often not available in stores, based on the misconception that these items won’t appeal to customers and generate sales. A TikTok by Samyra shows how only one out of five stores even had plus-sizes in stores. This inaccessibility is cruel to those who prefer to try on clothes in-person and further perpetuates the idea that plus-size fashion is less desirable.
In addition, when plus-size sections do exist, they are frequently tucked away at the back and neglected, contributing to this sense of invisibility. Creators like Samyra have been vocal about these issues, helping to bring attention to the need for more accessible fashion. In one of her TikToks, she shows how the plus-size section had been blocked off by other racks, preventing shoppers from even seeing the designs. This lack of visibility reinforces the idea that plus-size people are an afterthought in the fashion industry, making it harder for them to feel represented or valued in mainstream retail spaces.
Even when plus-sizes are available, they’re often marketed in ways that discourage shoppers from feeling comfortable in their bodies. Samyra highlights this in her videos, using humor to unmask what is an uncomfortable daily reality for many. In one TikTok, she parodies “Part of Your World,” singing, “Do you care that I don’t feel like shopping no more?”. She walks down the sparse plus-size aisles, pulling out tags with language such as “secretly slender”, “tummy control”, and “thigh minimizer”.
Samyra highlights the awful truth that even when clothes are to be found, they’re often marketed as a solution to being plus-size. Wording like “slimming”, “tucking”, and “form flattering” can be disheartening to shoppers who feel that their bodies aren’t normalized. It’s no surprise that companies are reluctant to expand their sizing when they market their plus-sizes in such a negative light.
Plus-size clothing lines also suffer from what Samyra jokingly calls the “overworked and underpaid” Snoopy effect in one of her videos. A lack of attention from designers has resulted in a phenomenon where cartoons, basic florals, and Disney characters are repeatedly used, rather than offering a broader and more diverse selection of design styles that cater to a wider range of preferences.
The lack of individualism in plus-size fashion restricts most buyers’ choices to designs they don’t really want to wear, designs that one would think belonged in a kids’ section. “Ain’t nobody buying this,” jokes Samyra in the same video, showing the untouched racks of Snoopy and Minnie Mouse shirts.
Moreover, in spite of the growing popularity of the body positivity movement, it’s a common perception that people should just focus on fitting into smaller sizes. Fatphobia is still an aggressive presence in the fashion world, especially online. Some of the top comments on Samyra’s videos paint her body as the problem, urging her to workout instead of going after brands (“The solution is easy, girl”, writes one of the top-liked comments on a Samyra TikTok where she discusses the lack of inclusive sizing at American Eagle). However, the same problems above apply to finding plus-size workout clothing, so how is that even possible? It’s easy to stay anonymous online, whether it’s in influencers’ comments or criticizing the Victoria’s Secret runway for inclusivity, but the small yet frequent presence of fatphobia has genuine feedback in the industry.
So what kind of feedback does matter to the industry? One of the biggest misconceptions about plus-size fashion is that brands don’t make it because of the cost. Yes, plus-sizes do cost more to make overall, as there are different fabric amounts, sewing time, and workers involved. But, following this pattern, shouldn’t petite and tall sizing options cost more and be equally unavailable?
The truth is, there’s very little impact to companies if plus-size options are included in their profit margin, just like packaging, tax, and other fees. But when the feedback given on their designs is primarily from online fatphobia, it further feeds into the cycle the idea that plus-size clothing doesn’t positively affect brands. Instead, we should focus on encouraging brands to build up their plus-size lines, demonstrating just how many benefits there are to inclusive sizing.
For example, plus-size fashion has the potential to be far more expressive than it's often given credit for. Plus-size models are redefining the industry by showing that fashion is about attitude and individuality, not just the shape of one’s body. By incorporating plus-size models into runway shows, showcasing them in ads, and making their clothes more accessible, we allow more inclusive storytelling in fashion.
Plus-size bodies bring unique perspectives to visual narratives that have often been ignored by mainstream media. People of all sizes deserve to embrace their creativity, free from the daily shopping struggle and that dreaded Snoopy effect. By shifting away from current biases in design and sizing, the fashion industry can better serve the underserved plus-size market by prioritizing inclusive sizing, offering a wider variety of design aesthetics, and ensuring that plus-size garments are both stylish and functional.
Fortunately, Samyra’s viral videos have begun to reach companies and incite change, as shown in this video, where apparel company Reformation reached out to Samyra and moved some of their plus-sizes to an in-person location. Hopefully, the body positivity movement will grow even further as brands realize that expanding their size range doesn't hurt their bottom line.
So, let’s push for change, and, as a very wise TikToker might say….put big bad b*tch clothes on the rack!