Japanese Americana: Two Histories Intertwined
By Noah Park
Introduction
While big media platforms have certainly spotlighted many tangible issues that have derived from our experiences with the pandemic, it's important to recognize that there are a handful of social matters that are often overshadowed by these headlining stories. One issue in specific that deserves more attention is the dramatic uptick in hate crimes directed towards Asian Americans. While the Center for the Study of Hate and Extremism reported that anti-Asian hate crimes have skyrocketed by 339 percent since 2021, many feel that this reality is being dismissed in part due to the model minority myth that surrounds Asian Americans. This pervasive expectation that Asian Americans aren’t subjected to the hate of traditionalist America because each of us are assumed to be smart, affluent, docile, and tender. As this dichotomy continues to exist, it is undoubtedly true that our intolerance will further blind our visions from the interwoven, and complementary narratives that exist between the West and the far East.
Amid such a contentious time in Asian American history, several designers have spoken out against the matter. They’ve reminded us that what coexists with our hardships as BIPOC in America, is a unique and inspirational relationship that fosters both; innovation, and specialization in the fashion industry. One of the most notable examples of this relationship, and what recent stigmas have blinded us to, is the development of Japanese Americana, a design based on the Japanese interpretation of American styles. Japanese Americana has its roots planted in even the earliest of dynasties in Japan. Following a period of cultural and economic isolation, Japanese governments turned to embracing Western traditions and American wear, in hopes of sparking a sense of cultural revivalism throughout the nation. This allowed for the blending of Japanese innovation and Western creativity to create a timeless style.
1920s
During the early 1920s, Japan's fashion industry flourished after opening its literal and metaphorical borders up to the outside world. As a wave of new cultures, looks, and inspiration flooded the market for design, society was introduced to the notion of mobos and mogas, the first most notable subculture to popularize Japanese Americana. Only colloquially known as mobas and mogas, these two terms derive from the combination of the word “modern”, and “boys and girls”. Mobas and mogas were always seen to be financially and emotionally stable, and it showed in their wardrobe. Classic Mobas were often seen in American style loafers, wide legged slacks, a sack style coat, and a light boater hat to pay homage to Western culture. Contrastingly, a Moga in the 1920s could have been seen wearing anything as conservative as a patterned shawl and carousel, to a flowing mid-rise dress and bonnet. Unlike our current fashion industry, 1920s Japanese Americana was centered around creating the wealthiest looking image of oneself through adopting Western traditions.
Women's wear caught a lot of attention from the public because it accentuated a woman's figure or exposed parts of their bodies that have traditionally been concealed. With that said, Japanese Americana did not only bring the perception of prosperity, but also female empowerment.
By Vintage Everyday
1950s
While the Ametora-centric attitude from Japanese fashion certainly died down during the latter half of the early 1900s, following the era of modern boys and girls, a plethora of opportunities and style –once again– washed over Japan in a second coming of the adoption of western wear to create another peak within the styles popularity. This revival was primarily due to the rise of movie stars, as Hollywood began to make its entrance into the international media scene. As a result, much of Japan’s youth looked up to the wardrobes of renowned public figures such as Marlon Brando, Kirk Douglas, and Audrey Hepburn. This admiration manifested in 1950s modern boys’ affinity for bootcut Lees and Levis, tassel vests, turtlenecks, and the Henley shirt. Japanese Americana had shifted from the conservative business wear popular in the 1920s to something more adventurous and complementary to the figure in the late 1950s. This time period was especially crucial to the development of the new wave as it not only followed historical events; such as the Olympic games, but also because it served as a turning point in the international fashion industry. Past the 50s, big name brands began to incorporate Japanese Americana into their clothing line.
Before this period in Japanese history, the tee shirt was only seen as an undershirt. Following its popularization as a stand alone garment in Hollywood, Japanese Americana began to recognize it as a daily staple as well.
By Voices of East Anglia
1980s
During the late 1980s, the Ametora focus took off and forced big brands to increase production as demand for Western cut attire skyrocketed. As a result, brands like Wrangler, Levis, and Lee began to compromise the quality of their inventory in order to increase profit margins and match worldwide climbing demands. With that, customer satisfaction sank as brands traded-off the quality of production for increased revenue. While style did change during this era, the most notable difference in the fashion industry was the lateral shift from buying American replicas to birthing a new market for Japanese selvedge denim. As they combatted the dip in quality, the Japanese began to make their own name for themselves as trailblazers of the global fashion industry using their denim mills to change the face of contemporary design.
2000 to Present
From street fashion to high fashion, the Japanese rendition of Ametora looks constantly inspires designers all over the world. In recent years, the modernization of Japanese Americana has been most notable through brands such as Beams Plus, Kapital, and Visvim. It’s taken Western trends and focused on emphasizing the uniqueness of flowing, shapeless wear. Pieces like wide legged denim, ripstop khakis, and boxy cut tops hide the figure, but allow the subject to create a sense of appeal that builds off of what is unseen.
Beautifully captured from Tokyo's Spring fashion week this past year, the model wears an oversized blazer styled with a pair of wide legged denim and the Bottega Veneta Puddle Ankle Boot. While each piece hides their true figure, their wardrobe certainly creates a special kind of mystique that Japanese Americana has emphasized in recent years.
By Kira/TokyoFashion (Vogue)
Conclusion
Since the age of the Moga, all the way to the popularization of Hollywood in Japan, the tale of Japanese Americana isn’t one of narrow-mindedness or hostility, but one of acceptance and collaboration. The roots of this style are grounded in the very idea of building onto existing trends and crediting the original in ways that also push the industry forward. As we continue through this tumultuous period in American history, we mustn’t forget that the fashion industry isn’t the only testament to the interwoven stories of the United States and Asia. In this fight against hate, ignorance, and malice, it is our responsibility to foster narratives that overlap and include one another with the hope that we can turn the tide on a violent trend threatening our minority brothers and sisters across the country.