Indigenous American Fashion: Advocacy and Style
Harper’s Bazaar/Erin Lux
The clothes we wear tell a story, especially when they represent a culture of rich history. When fashion inspiration is taken from another heritage, the line between appreciation and appropriation should be drawn. Program Assistant Kelsey Holmes of Greenheart International explains the delineation between appreciation and appropriation: “Appreciation is when someone seeks to understand and learn about another culture in an effort to broaden their perspective and connect with others cross-culturally. Appropriation on the other hand, is simply taking one aspect of a culture that is not your own and using it for your own personal interest.”
In light of Indigenous American Heritage month this November, I urge all readers to explore the deep history and fascinating culture of the many tribes that fall under the umbrella of “Indigenous American.” Given the oppressive history that Indigenous Americans have faced, one cannot stress enough the importance of respecting and expressing sensitivity towards its people and culture. With this in mind, how can we honor the creative and culturally rich components of Indigenous American style, as well as the people that it represents?
Firstly, by gaining an understanding of the history and meaning behind articles of clothing, one limits the potential for the deconstruction of its history. Though a consumer may love the aesthetic of certain clothing items, this does not entitle a seller or consumer the right to use it for personal advantage.
Many well-known clothing labels have wrongly taken these measures. Urban Outfitters, for example, sold a collection entitled “Navajo hipster panties” without honoring, endorsing, or promoting education about the Navajo tribe. This is a prime example of the appropriation of a culture through fast fashion. Thankfully, the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 prohibits the selling of Native-made or tribally-specific items from those not in a federally or state recognized tribe, causing this case to go to court. Although this regulation protects appropriation from big companies, online shopping has complicated its effectiveness.
In order to avoid perpetuating this insensitivity, consumers should consider purchasing items from an authentic source. Searching for authentic items can be a way to directly support a specific culture, while enhancing your wardrobe. Doing so also supports the livelihood of Indigenous Americans and limits racial offenses. There are numerous brands and vendors available online and in-person.
One example is TP Mox, a company founded by members of the Blackfeet tribe. A portion of the company's proceeds go towards reducing poverty in the Blackfeet Indian Reservation in Northwestern Montana. Each pair of moccasins sold increases necessities for underprivileged children on the reservation and resources for maintaining Native American traditions. TP Mox sells both authentic and customizable moccasin shoes. The company’s website features information on the Blackfeet Tribe, allowing the consumer to further their understanding and appreciation for the culture.
In addition to supporting Native American brands, consider finding a market selling authentic items near you. The 9th Street Gallup Flea Market, for example, is located in McKinley County, New Mexico, and sells items such as produce, jewelry and souvenirs. Purchasing from markets like Gallup Flea also supports small Indigenous businesses.
Each individual culture has unique practices and ideas to offer. While using elements from another culture can lead to new creative directions, it is important to pay homage to the history that is being represented. Despite the brutality and injustice that Native Americans have faced on US soil, it is never too late to fight for these communities. As this Indigenous American Heritage Month comes to an end, please consider reflecting on mutually beneficial ways in which you can demonstrate an appreciation for this culture!
Leah Sokol