As Rihanna sported a luxurious Diesel shearling coat at Off White’s Fall/Winter 2022 show and Dua Lipa confidently rocked an all-denim Diesel ensemble while strolling the streets of New York, the burning question arises: Is Diesel back? These celebrities aren’t the only ones embracing the eccentric brand; Kylie Jenner, Megan Thee Stallion, Julia Fox, and a multitude of other influencers have been posting Diesel-adorned looks to their social media pages. With a myriad of Diesel pieces saturating Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest posts, it’s hard to believe that the company faced Bankruptcy just 4 years ago.

In the fickle realm of fashion, rebranding is a very difficult task, yet Diesel stands as an inspiring success story. Before delving into how incredible marketing strategies and bold creative vision transformed Diesel's image, it’s important to understand the brand’s origins.

The Rise and Fall

Fueled by the desire to create the world’s most innovative jeans, Italian designer Renzo Rosso established Diesel in 1978 after acquiring and renaming the clothing manufacturer Moltex. Characterized by its use of raw denim, grunge-inspired accessories, and low-rise cuts, Diesel soon paved its own unique identity. The brand’s seamless blending of European chic and American cool, coupled with its provocative marketing campaigns, resonated strongly with a generation of disgruntled youth and fashion-forward individuals. As the 90’s progressed, Diesel’s popularity soared. Having gained a reputation for its rebellious character and trendsetting look, Diesel became the epitome of cool.

In the 2000s, Diesel faced hardship as its flamboyant and flashy designs lost ground to the surging popularity of minimalist styles. The public’s perception of Diesel as a trendsetter waned, further exacerbated by increasing competition from brands such as G-star and Abercombie & Fitch. Once known for its eccentric campaigns and bold approach, Rosso’s Diesel gradually fell into a state of mediocrity. The brand began producing a series of mundane products, losing the spark that had originally defined Diesel. Having lost their influence in the sartorial landscape, Diesel’s vision was muddy and the brand seemed as if it had run out of gas. This decline eventually reached its climax in March of 2019, where the brand filed for chapter 11 Bankruptcy.

A New Era

In October 2020, Belgian designer Glenn Martens was appointed as the brand’s new creative director. Martens was a natural choice for the position, having built a strong reputation through his work for Jean Paul Galtier and his creative directorship at the high-end brand Y/Project. Best known for its avant-garde style, featuring deconstructed denim garments and non-conventional pieces such as denim panties, Martens’ Y/Project showcased a subversive approach that deeply resonated with Diesel’s founder Renzo Rosso.

For a long time, the brand’s founder contemplated the idea of Martens handling Diesel’s ready-to-wear collections. To test the waters, Renzo Rosso initially had Martens work for Diesel on the experimental capsule project: Diesel red tag-–a soft launch, if you will. Ultimately, Rosso pulled the trigger. This move marked a new era for Diesel, as Martens brought a much-needed vitality and fresh approach that revived the brand.

When first accepting the position of creative director, Martens expressed that “there’s an emotional factor with Diesel. It’s a brand I grew up with. It was huge. Honestly, it was the sexiest thing in my teenage time. It was the very first brand I consciously bought. I was 16 or 17 and I was bartending, and I saved money to get some Diesel denim.” It was this admiration for the company that led to him realizing its potential. In an interview with Hypebeast, Martens noted that “All the ingredients were there… [Diesel] was just a bit sleepy. I had to wake it up.”

**Glenn Martens, photograph by Zac Bayly.**

Sustainability

Sustainability stood at the forefront of Marten’s vision for Diesel, prompting the incorporation of eco-friendly practices, recycled fibers, and non-toxic substances into their clothing designs. Alongside these efforts, Diesel has introduced several circular fashion initiatives, including Jean Buyback: a program enabling customers to trade in and resell old Jeans. The buyback program quickly gained success, with Diesel collecting and reconditioning an impressive 900 jeans within a mere 4 months of the program’s initiation. Another prominent service opened was Diesel Second Hand: a resale business established in Milan, Florence, and Rome.

Martens further advanced his sustainability campaign with the launch of Diesel Library, a genderless essentials collection crafted with the goal of making denim that lasts a lifetime. This durable-denim collection was designed with a heavy emphasis on responsible manufacturing. Because of this, the fabrics included were made with organic and recycled fibers, as well as finishing treatments that reduced the amount of water and chemicals used.

Brand Strategy

OTB group, Diesel’s parent company, revealed a 2021 final report stating that the brand sought to reposition itself in the alternative luxury segment. Premiumization efforts, aimed to drive more hype surrounding the company, have helped contribute to this goal. The report also highlighted Diesel’s strategic aspiration of shifting towards a trend-oriented international clientele. This vision materialized in the formation of a pop-up location in Ginza, Tokyo's premium shopping district, in November 2022. The new store featured “Diesel Studio,” an interactive project exploring and celebrating Tokyo’s diverse culture.

Alongside expanding cultural influences, Marten’s Diesel has diversified its product lines. While denim remains central to the brand, there’s a newfound emphasis on accessories and footwear. Diesel has even ventured into the athleisure wear field, introducing an assortment of compression shorts, sports bras, sweats, t-shirts, and hoodies to their catalog. This collection, characterized by its color blocking and logo-taping, exudes a retro vibe reminiscent of Diesel in the 90’s and early 2000’s.

The “D” Logo

One significant product expansion that aligns with the company’s goal of being a premium lifestyle brand is the reintroduction of the Oval “D” logo. Originally the brand’s signature logo, it reemerged for the first time in Diesel's collections since 2004 at Marten’s debut Spring/Summer 2022 runway show. This iconic emblem stands as one of the most identifiable features of Marten’s Diesel, symbolizing the return of the brand that everyone knew and loved.

Among the standout designs featuring the “D” logo, the most prominent “D” design from the Spring/Summer 2022 show was the 1DR handbag. Featuring a bold D logo on the front, the bag’s industrial, y2k-esque feel propelled it to be one of the most popular womens’ bags in the world for 2022 and 2023.

**1DR shoulder bag. Image Credit: Getty**

Spring/Summer 24 Runway Show

Featuring over 7000 attendees, heavy rainfall, and a rave-like atmosphere, Diesel’s most recent SS24 show was a spectacle to behold. Reflecting on the show’s 73-look collection, Glenn Martens explained that it embodies “the spirit of Diesel, democratic and experimental in every piece. I believe in living life to the fullest, that every day should be a party.” This runway show certainly seemed like a party, with models strutting down a 150 feet runway backdropped by aggressive techno-rave beats and a massive 26 x 16 meter screen.

As the first models graced the runway in artisanal-shredded and devorè denim ensembles, it became apparent that Martens found nearly every possible way to uniquely degrade and distress denim. The initial portion of the collection featured elements such as bleached t-shirts, distressed bottoms, and utilitarian cuts, creating a post-industrial dystopian vibe that seemed ready-to-wear for the apocalypse. The show then transitioned into a more vibrant palette, showcasing a slew of trompe l’oeil bikini dresses and movie posters for titles like Spice World and Batman emblazoned across the models’ tops. The iconic “D” logo even made its way back across the runway in various forms, including a metal-plated “D” that somehow crowned a model’s forehead. With rain still pouring and music energetic as ever, the show concluded with a sophisticated display of body-con dresses and silky headscarves.

Once again, Martens proves that Diesel’s flashy production is backed by masterful craftsmanship. This SS24 show truly encapsulates the daring, fun, provocative, and inventive nature of Diesel that Martens has so carefully been curating, and it stands as testament to how far Diesel has come from its lowest point back in 2019.

In the words of Martens, “I think it’s the most complicated moment in the history of mankind to be a creative director. In the past, it was about making beautiful clothes and creating a universe, which is still part of the deal, but it’s way bigger than that now. It’s political. It’s social. It’s about engagement. It’s about social media. You have to be very multifaceted.” Despite the complexity, Martens has taken the challenge head-on. It’s very difficult to make a comeback but Glenn Martens’ Diesel has achieved it, providing hope and inspiration to a wave of brands that have fallen from former glory. Martens has orchestrated an absolute masterclass on brand revival, proving that with creativity and determination, “for successful living” can not only be a slogan, but a reality.

A few looks from Diesel SS24: