The Devil Wears MAGA: The Cultural Implications of the GOP’s ‘Patriotic Designer Showcase’
Stars and Stripes for a Conservative Fashion show…groundbreaking
Graphic by Calvin McClure.
"Make America Glam Again?" Clearly the GOP has “concepts of a runway.” With fashion month in full swing, the GOP decided to unveil the “America First Patriotic Designer Showcase,” with Long Island unexpectedly becoming the new ‘fashion capital’ The event took place at Ronkonkoma’s America First Warehouse, setting a distinctively American stage.
Source: Washington Post
The event proudly promotes itself as “a unique, patriotic venue” and boasted an uncanny Hunger Games-esque anthem and crowd size, framing the show's ambiance as unique and intentionally theatrical. The designer showcase was organized by Cindy Grosz, a former candidate who lost the 2020 Republican primary for a congressional seat representing parts of Long Island. With experience in event production, Grosz envisioned the fashion show as a conservative counterbalance to what she views as a predominantly liberal-leaning industry. “People want to put Republicans in a box, and they say we’re not creative or artistic,” the creative director said. “We want to show them otherwise.”
The event was a campy mix of kitsch, patriotism, and pop surrealism that drew just 32 chairs and three benches; this was reflected in the invitation, which features clip-art silhouettes of sassy models and promises a “fun, glamorous, and patriotic evening as we debut America First designers.” The "America First Patriotic Designer Showcase" represents a deliberate effort by conservative designers to craft a fashion identity that aligns with nationalist and traditionalist values. Unlike mainstream fashion, which often embraces progressive themes and avant-garde aesthetics, these designers focus on creating apparel that embodies patriotism and conservative ideals. The GOP’s “America First Patriotic Designer Showcase” uses fashion as a political tool to reframe conservative values within the aesthetics of rebellion, claiming a countercultural identity. However, this attempt to construct a visual language of defiance highlights a deeper paradox: the appropriation of progressive subcultural symbols by a movement rooted in tradition and authority. This shift reveals the growing role of fashion as a medium for political expression and cultural identity, raising questions about authenticity, polarization, and the future of political couture.
What is Conservative Couture?
Source: New York Times
Just two days after a second assassination attempt on former President Donald J. Trump, and on the eve of his scheduled rally at Nassau Coliseum on Long Island, the event highlighted the stylistic evolution of a political movement deeply rooted in fashion. After all, MAGA hats are emblematic of Donald Trump’s political identity since they debuted as merchandise during his 2016 campaign. The aesthetics of 'MAGA Fashionistas' have been defined by a patriotism-meets-pop-art vibe, flag-centric designs, and a heavy use of American iconography. The stylistic language is campy Americana with a hint of rebellion, challenging the usual conservative dress code, with regalia going from head to toe, as some key highlights of the collection include a Swarovski-encrusted MAGA cap, A MAGA lipstick said to match the red shade of MAGA hats, and an American flag clutch.
The bedazzled clutch is a real masterpiece of irony, featuring a butchered flag with 84 stars and 12 stripes, instead of the symbolic 50 stars and 13 stripes. Some standout pieces are the flag-covered dresses, and the Trump cyborg jacket. One notable figure in attendance was soap opera actress Martha Byrne, making an appearance in a red leather jacket embossed with the viral image of Trump's raised fist after his first assassination attempt.
The overtly political elements in these designs—such as cyborg renditions of Trump and heavy use of flag iconography—reinforces conservative values and the "America First" ideology. This showcase aims to reshape patriotism into a fashion-forward aesthetic tailored to conservative audiences, reflecting a broader trend of clothing as an "identity badge" where lifestyle and political allegiance merge seamlessly. However, beyond the ideological statements, these so-called "fashion designs" fall short even from a purely aesthetic and quality perspective. Outdated and tasteless in concept, many pieces are poorly constructed, ill-fitting, and lack a cohesive direction. Despite the claims made of wanting to prove commonly held narratives wrong, artistry was sacrificed for fanaticism. Made from low-quality materials, they fail to meet the standards of craftsmanship and innovation expected in high fashion, revealing a disconnect between the intent to elevate patriotism through style and the execution required to do so effectively.
Conservative Fashion’s Co-Opting of Rebellion
Key elements of punk shown in historical image.
Despite the common narrative that fashion is frivolous and shallow, it has always been tightly intertwined with political symbolism, and most of the time balanced between craftsmanship and the message it's trying to send.
Beginning in the 1970s, punk emerged as a fierce response to social and economic discontent, and fashion was simply an extension of the frustration. Torn clothing, studded leather, and provocative symbols (like safety pins and anarchy symbols) intended to shock and challenge authority as well as push back against respectability politics. It's no different in high fashion and couture houses, with designers often using their platforms to challenge societal norms and promote social causes.
In the 1970s, Vivienne Westwood became a key figure in the punk movement, embedding anti-establishment, environmentalist, and anti-capitalist messages into her designs. Her use of punk symbols, like safety pins and tartan patterns, along with slogans such as "Buy Less, Choose Well," critiqued consumer culture.
In 2017, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior brought feminism to the forefront, debuting a collection featuring T-shirts with the phrase "We Should All Be Feminists," inspired by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's essay. This marked a significant statement in support of female empowerment and gender equality.
A year later, Prabal Gurung explored themes of American identity and immigration, responding to the divisive political climate with designs that celebrated inclusivity. His pieces included sashes with phrases like "Who gets to be American?" and "I am an immigrant," questioning isolationist policies and advocating for diversity. Even at this year’s New York Fashion Week, certain designers had overt political messages within their runway shows.
Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg of Area, for instance, developed their latest collection around the motto “Bans Off Our Bodies”; their runway show featured a T-shirt supporting Planned Parenthood.
It's not a coincidence that the conservative fashion show puts a twist on traditional "edgy" or "punk" styles whilst attempting to elevate it to a couture level. At its core, all alternative styles explicitly reject societal norms and protest the institutions that uphold and enforce them. Punk especially is fueled by anti-establishmentarianism, anti-consumerism, anti-capitalism and anti-racism. While progressive fashion movements often oppose traditional, government, or capitalist structures, conservative fashion appropriates that aesthetic of opposition but refocuses it as resistance against progressive and liberal establishments.
The GOP’s showcase reflects a “countercultural” fashion attitude that both mimics and subverts progressive anti-establishment sentiments, claiming a similar outsider status but directed against a perceived liberal dominance in media, entertainment, and higher education. This show frames conservatism as the new “punk”—the group fighting against the mainstream narrative. It then brings about an oxymoron - the values of the Republicans are the opposite of what subculture usually is, but it reflects how conservatives believe they are the silenced minority and are “rebelling.” Similar to the January 6th insurrection, the GOP are co-opting the aesthetic of rebellion - but is this approach to fashion a statement of opposition against mainstream or liberal aesthetics?
Paradoxes and Ironies in Conservative “Counterculture”
This shift raises interesting questions about authenticity in fashion. Can a movement that adopts the trappings of rebellion while upholding traditional or nationalist values genuinely be called “alternative”? Or is it a form of postmodern co-option where styles and symbols lose their original meaning in favor of new – sometimes contradictory – interpretations?
At its core, the concept of "alternative" fashion is deeply intertwined with resistance, disruption, and rebellion against societal norms. Punk fashion, for example, emerged as an overt critique of capitalism and consumer culture, embedding subversive symbols—like safety pins, ripped clothing, and anarchist slogans—into its visual language. Similarly, goth, grunge, and other subcultures have used style to reflect societal alienation, critique authority, and carve out spaces for marginalized voices. These movements are inherently oppositional, often existing in tension with traditional and institutional power structures.
By contrast, the GOP’s appropriation of rebellion-oriented aesthetics highlights a stark paradox: it seeks to claim the visual language of defiance while simultaneously championing traditional hierarchies, nationalist values, and the status quo. The question of authenticity arises because the foundation of rebellion is at odds with the values being upheld. This leads to the central tension in conservative "alternative" fashion—whether it can genuinely embody the subversive spirit it attempts to project, or if it’s merely adopting an aesthetic veneer without the ideological substance.
The paradox lies in promoting nationalism and conformity through symbols that traditionally reject conformity. The MAGA hat, a central icon of the movement, is mass-produced merchandise—a symbol of consumerism that contradicts the self-reliant, anti-globalist values conservatives often espouse.
Political Couture: Divisive or Transformative?
As fashion becomes more politicized, it increasingly speaks to segmented audiences—can political couture be inclusive or will it deepen fashion divides? Rhetoric and artistic expression is soft power that leads to hard outcomes politically, and in societies that are misaligned with authoritarianism, making authoritarianism an "expression of freedom" is the way to go. Analyzing this through the lens of Walter Benjamin’s ideas on aesthetics within his seminal work “The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction,” he argues that mass-produced art loses its "aura"—the unique presence and authenticity that a singular piece of art holds—and becomes a tool for political manipulation.This mass appeal through reproducible fashion aligns with Benjamin’s view of art’s potential to reinforce specific ideologies and galvanize collective identity, effectively mobilizing supporters around a shared aesthetic that feels accessible and recognizable.
Desantis and Pence above both pictured in self branded clothing. These fashion choices haven’t been seen before on such a broad scale during a national campaign.
Benjamin stated: “Fascism is the introduction of aesthetics into political life”. It’s seen everywhere -- from the military parades, the pageantry, the workwear. And communism responds by politicizing art. The president of the United States is a reality TV star. The 21st century is an aesthetic century. I understand why people can’t help but to ask: why has everything turned into a spectacle?
The “alternative” style is now a kind of "identity armor" for the MAGA movement, allowing individuals to publicly align themselves with a cause - which is why so many conservatives campaigning for the Republican nomination this year had visible self branding on the campaign tour, to an unusual degree. They’ve seemingly all traded the same bland milquetoast suits for loud slogans and self branded T-shirts, turning themselves into walking advertisements. From Ron Desantis’ “Ron Desantis” quarter zips, to Vivek Rameswamy’s “Vivek” polos, and Mike Pence’s “Pence” motorcycle vest. The GOP's shift from traditionally "safe" conservative styles to a more radical, visually assertive aesthetic marks a notable departure in political fashion. Historically, conservative fashion leaned toward classic, understated choices—think tailored suits, muted colors, and polished silhouettes—designed to convey stability, tradition, and restraint (remember when Obama’s Tan Suit-gate happened and Fox News wouldn’t shut up about it for 5 years?)
This conventional approach aligned with the party's commitment to traditional values and aversion to overt displays of disruption. By embracing a more confrontational style, conservative fashion now aims to resonate with a broader base and echo the energetic, anti-establishment spirit often associated with younger, more progressive movements. This radicalized aesthetic has created a distinct visual identity that acts as both political declaration and social armor, signaling defiance and a challenge to convention.
So, what does this mean for the future?
Conservative fashion’s attempt to claim a rebellious identity by borrowing from progressive subcultures is fraught with contradictions. While it seeks to project defiance against perceived liberal dominance, its foundation in tradition, authority, and nationalist values undermines the authenticity of this aesthetic co-option. Rebellion, at its core, involves rejecting existing power structures, but conservativism aligns itself with maintaining and reinforcing these institutions. This dissonance creates a movement that visually mimics subversion but ideologically falls short of embodying it.
Reflecting on Bertolt Brecht’s assertion that “art is not a mirror held up to reality, but a hammer with which to shape it,” the GOP’s fashion showcase highlights the transformative power of aesthetics. By constructing a visual language of rebellion, the GOP uses fashion as a tool to shape perceptions, mobilize support, and redefine its cultural relevance. However, this effort also muddles the authenticity and intention behind the movement, as the co-option of progressive aesthetics clashes with its ideological foundations.
The power of fashion lies in its ability to communicate identity, values, and aspirations. As this showcase demonstrates, style can be a potent weapon in the soft-power arsenal of political movements. Yet it also raises deeper questions about the commodification of rebellion and the ways in which cultural symbols are appropriated, recontextualized, and stripped of their original meaning. In an era where politics and culture are deeply intertwined, fashion becomes more than just self-expression—it becomes a battlefield for competing narratives about identity, power, and resistance.
With future elections, fashion will likely play an even greater role in shaping political identities and rallying support. Whether conservative fashion can solidify its place as a subcultural force or remain a divisive spectacle will depend on its ability to balance its ideological messaging with the authenticity and innovation that resonate in the broader cultural landscape. In the end, the GOP’s attempt to use fashion as a hammer to shape reality reflects both the possibilities and the limitations of aesthetic power in the political sphere.