Fashion & Politics: The Unlikely Cross Section in America
By Noah Park
The key virtues of fashion are drastically different from those of politics. Fashion is inclusive, adventurous, and creative. While politics is traditionalist, clandestine, and risk averse. So, how can these two facets of society ever possibly find common ground? We can answer this question by looking back to 2014, when former President Barack Obama wore his famous tan suit to a press conference. Pre-2014 Obama rode high on the momentum he garnered from reelection, as well as other notable accomplishments. Among other things, this sentiment of confidence and strength was self-evident in the former president’s wardrobe. Similarly to how one’s attire can be indicative of their attitude, a nation’s morale can certainly influence the direction of their fashion industry. Through the examination of different decades, we’ll see how politics can be used as an apparatus to determine the style preferences of Americans over time.
Event/Trend #1 (Contrast between the 1920s and the 1930s)The early 20s to late 30s is a unique time period in a sense that it perfectly captures the chain reaction that stems from our political atmosphere, and ends in contemporary design. During the 1920s, American morale was riding high on an era of economic prosperity and political success. As the feeling of triumph trickled down the ladder of American society, the fashion industry produced designs that were not only stylish, but accounted for physical expression and energetic lifestyles. At the time, consumers looked past traditionally regimented fashion, and popularized leisure attire and sportswear. For men, sweaters, jumpers, and wide legged linen made an appearance. Whereas, for women, canvas, knee length skirts and less layers reflected the newfound sense of political and social freedom that washed over the nation. During the 20s, Americans felt liberated enough to move away from the controlled lifestyle of previous decades and explore fashion through a new lense. With the residual sentiment of the 1920s still on the minds of Americans moving into the 30s, people found creative ways to answer the recession. The economic meltdown of the 1930s forced consumers to find ways to foster personality amidst unprecedented financial restrictions. This further gave rise to the popularity of upcycling and sustainable fashion as we know it today. Despite such a dramatic contrast between the politics of these two decades, the American fashion industry consistently responded with iconic ways to handle change.
Event/Trend #2 (1960)One of the unique ways in which the American fashion industry responded to a changing political atmosphere was the proliferation of the micro-mini skirt. It’s unclear whether the rise of the mini skirt was causal to the nascent feminist movement of the mid 1900s, or if it merely coincided with the campaign. Nonetheless, it was quintessential to the time period and the American Feminist Movement. While the roots of the micro-mini skirt can be traced earlier than the mid 1900s, the mini adopted a new meaning during the early 1960s after it was commercialized by feminist idol, Mary Quant. Despite never having had any formal instruction on design or entrepreneurial know-how, Quant had a unique and empowering vision for contemporary women’s wear. By expressing this vision through the early designs of the mini-skirt, Quant would unknowingly produce one of the most famous silhouettes in the history of fashion. A wide variety of brands from Deisel to Chanel have taken a unique approach to the concept of the mini skirt and continue to reinvent the staple piece as our tastes and preferences change.
While the mini skirt was not intended to be a political vehicle for the feminist movement during the 1900s, many women wore it as an emblem to symbolize female empowerment. As shown in the image, these 4 women are wearing a series of high-cut skirts and dresses while they participate in a strike against issues of sexism, misogyny, and discrimination. During the 50s on, the feminist movement has been under the spotlight within American politics and has been represented by a wide variety of symbols following the micro mini.
By Valeria Ramos/Madame Blue
Event/Trend #3 (1980)Following the political and social advocacy that surrounded the Women’s Movement in the 1960s, women's working conditions began to garner attention as America moved into the early 1980s. Largely in part due to the popularization of liberal feminism, a camp of feminism that highlighted the similarities between men and women to achieve equal treatment. Through addressing this movement, many political figureheads proliferated the perspective, and indirectly influenced the rise of high-end work apparel for women. Brands such as Emporio Armani and Valentino produced power suits that became representative of the Women’s Movement and female fashion. While the power suit might not be as prevalent as the mini skirt, this silhouette is still one that serves as a byproduct of an important social and political development that continues to exist today.
This model’s power suit allowed them to create the perfect representation of the Women’s Movement within the workplace. They wear a broad shouldered jacket and wide legged trousers to create a large, yet empowering shape. Their short tie contrasts beautifully with the exaggerated length of their coat to highlight a silhouette that shortens the torso and stretches the legs. The model’s power suit comes from a special line of Emporio Armani workwear that kickstarted their popularity in the late 1900s.
By Ted Blackbrow/Associated Newspapers
Event/Trend #4 (2008) The power suit was a unique piece that certainly encapsulated the liberating sentiment of the 1980s. Its progression relays an important message about morale, and how it can impact the way we dress. One drastic example of this relationship can be seen in how Americans responded to the 2008 financial meltdown. Following the recession, many Americans were still being frugal with their expenditures, and as a result weren’t as adventurous with their design choices as in previous years. With less money in the pockets of the people and less supply in our markets, Americans shifted their interest towards the “elevated basic”. Under the greater umbrella of minimalism, the concept of subtle branded, quality essentials reflected a transition away from gaudy statement pieces to prioritizing versatility and affordability. This evolution in style was representative of how poor political choices ultimately restricted the freedom of American consumers. Brands such as Everlane and Uniqlo do a great job at preserving our tastes in minimalist fashion as they design pieces that can each be worn in a variety of different ways without being a costly statement piece.
Many of us might know Simmons from the presence he has on social media. If you do, you’d know that Simmons is a staunch advocate for the concept of normcore, i.e., the elevated basic. While his closet might not consist of the flashiest, most attention grabbing pieces, he certainly does a good job at crafting a wardrobe that is timeless and versatile. These two virtues are the core concepts that directed consumers in post-recession America.
By Daniel Simmons/Daniel Simmons
The popularity of normcore is still apparent in the fashion industry today as brands like New Balance, The North Face, and Cole Buxton take their own slant on the concept of the elevated basic. And while this style still dominates our markets, the direction that we’re headed in is still as unclear as ever. With that, as we begin a new era we can continue to examine our current political and economic climate in search of indicators for what could be the next “tan suit”.